The Quest
About a year ago I made some hashbrowns that were by far the best I had ever created or tasted. They were like velvet, smooth with the slightest hint of crisp. Okay, maybe they didn’t taste like velvet, but they made feel like my face was draped in it whil eating them; these potatoes were more crispy and chewy, salty and sweet—everything I could want in hashbrowns. And all I had used were potatoes, onions, and some salt: simple, elegant, with a beautiful feeling on the tongue. I’d hate to think these hashbrowns are in that “first-love-feeling-you’ll-be-forever-chasing” category, but so far that’s been the case.
Here’s the issue I face today: I can’t remember what kind of potatoes or onions I used; since that’s all there was, these details seem pretty important; hence my quest.
This I know to be true about hashbrowns…
My good friend Dan Brazelton passed on some key knowledge about making hashbrowns. First, you must squeeze out the excess liquid: leave it in and you’re just making steamed potatoes. The easiest way is to put it in some cheesecloth and twist it dry; or, you can squeeze handfuls over the sink like I do (not recommended for large batches ‘cos you’re hands will get tired). Second, use a lower heat and give it some time (I think he told me that one, or I just made it up). Third, and this is important, leave it alone: if you keep messing with the hash, it won’t brown properly.
It’s also important to use a heat-retaining pan, either cast iron or All Clad will do. Now, if you compare the prices of the two options you can plainly understand why I cook with cast iron. No disrespect to the wonders of All Clad, but cast iron will get you 90% there for 10% of the expense.
Today’s batch
I just cooked up a batch using Russets; now I know the velvet hashbrowns weren’t these. Russets are good hashing potatoes, near as I can tell; they have a nice starchy tooth that couples well with white onion; however, I’m after something a little chewier.
I tried adding a bit of garlic to this batch. Predictably, it added a nice garlicky flavor, but this made the dish a little too savory and heavy. Velvet hashbrowns get their savory flavor from the onion, salt, and oil, but it’s a lighter touch, methinks.
The onion I used has been in the fridge for a while, so I fear it has lost a good deal of its sweetness. Hmmmm. I used bacon grease to get the skillet started—cast iron, of course—and topped it off with olive oil. Maybe just regular oil would be better? But bacon is so good!
Maybe next time I’ll try baking the whole thing. I’ve had such good luck with baking bacon….
What happened to part one?
Since it’s been a year, this is hardly my first attempt at making Velvet Hashbrowns. I’ve come close many times, but didn’t have the presence of mind to make careful note of the variables. Let’s call part one “a year of living carelessly.”
How have you achieved “Velvet Hashbrowns”?
If you’re like me, you’ve made some kickass hashbrowns in your time. What made them rock? Leave your somments.
