The Quest
About a year ago I made some hashbrowns that were by far the best I had ever created or tasted. They were like velvet, smooth with the slightest hint of crisp. Okay, maybe they didn’t taste like velvet, but they made feel like my face was draped in it whil eating them; these potatoes were more crispy and chewy, salty and sweet—everything I could want in hashbrowns. And all I had used were potatoes, onions, and some salt: simple, elegant, with a beautiful feeling on the tongue. I’d hate to think these hashbrowns are in that “first-love-feeling-you’ll-be-forever-chasing” category, but so far that’s been the case.
Here’s the issue I face today: I can’t remember what kind of potatoes or onions I used; since that’s all there was, these details seem pretty important; hence my quest.
This I know to be true about hashbrowns…
My good friend Dan Brazelton passed on some key knowledge about making hashbrowns. First, you must squeeze out the excess liquid: leave it in and you’re just making steamed potatoes. The easiest way is to put it in some cheesecloth and twist it dry; or, you can squeeze handfuls over the sink like I do (not recommended for large batches ‘cos you’re hands will get tired). Second, use a lower heat and give it some time (I think he told me that one, or I just made it up). Third, and this is important, leave it alone: if you keep messing with the hash, it won’t brown properly.
It’s also important to use a heat-retaining pan, either cast iron or All Clad will do. Now, if you compare the prices of the two options you can plainly understand why I cook with cast iron. No disrespect to the wonders of All Clad, but cast iron will get you 90% there for 10% of the expense.
Today’s batch
I just cooked up a batch using Russets; now I know the velvet hashbrowns weren’t these. Russets are good hashing potatoes, near as I can tell; they have a nice starchy tooth that couples well with white onion; however, I’m after something a little chewier.
I tried adding a bit of garlic to this batch. Predictably, it added a nice garlicky flavor, but this made the dish a little too savory and heavy. Velvet hashbrowns get their savory flavor from the onion, salt, and oil, but it’s a lighter touch, methinks.
The onion I used has been in the fridge for a while, so I fear it has lost a good deal of its sweetness. Hmmmm. I used bacon grease to get the skillet started—cast iron, of course—and topped it off with olive oil. Maybe just regular oil would be better? But bacon is so good!
Maybe next time I’ll try baking the whole thing. I’ve had such good luck with baking bacon….
What happened to part one?
Since it’s been a year, this is hardly my first attempt at making Velvet Hashbrowns. I’ve come close many times, but didn’t have the presence of mind to make careful note of the variables. Let’s call part one “a year of living carelessly.”
How have you achieved “Velvet Hashbrowns”?
If you’re like me, you’ve made some kickass hashbrowns in your time. What made them rock? Leave your somments.
Comments 13
Cast Iron will get you 100% of the way for 10% of the price, while All Clad will get you 90% of the way for 200% of the price.
My favorite potatoes for hash are yellow – German Butterballs in particular if you can find them.
Some yellows get gummy, so it’s a pain to figure out the right one. Safeway labels yellow as Yukon Gold, but in fact uses any yellow potato that they find.
Good luck. This is a quest worth pursuing.
Posted 23 May 2009 at 2:06 pm ¶I would venture to bet that the potaotes you used were probably a red potatoe, the tend to crisp up really well, and as far as onions, again red onions, but if you were being adventerous Id suggest some shallots…Just my guess….
Posted 23 May 2009 at 2:44 pm ¶Kimberly, I hadn’t used red onions, but I’ll give that a try. Shallots might be interesting; do they sweeten up? Hmmm, red potatoes … could have been. I’ll give those a try, right after I go back to try out some yellow potatoes per Dan’s suggestion.
Posted 23 May 2009 at 3:15 pm ¶your gonna be sick of potoes soon…lol
Posted 23 May 2009 at 3:56 pm ¶Try Yukon Golds from WF and Vidalias. Add a little kosher salt to them after shredding and let them sit a bit before draining. I like russets and shallots. They don’t have much chew but crisp up well and I get a hint of garlic from the shallots. I think the reds are a little too waxy for my tastes. Cast iron is the only way. Want to die young? Rendered bacon fat from one strip added to the oil.
Posted 23 May 2009 at 4:59 pm ¶Okay, now I’m curious, Doug: what does the salt BEFORE draining do to the potato?
Posted 23 May 2009 at 5:07 pm ¶Hey Taj. It pulls extra moisture from the potato and makes them a little crispier, don’t go overboard with the salt and don’t season them as hard when cooking. I’m a fresh coarse ground black pepper fiend too unfortunately.
Posted 23 May 2009 at 5:14 pm ¶Hmmm, then wouldn’t I want to salt it AFTER I squeeze it so it’s not doing double duty? Or am I forgetting how osmosis really works?
Posted 23 May 2009 at 5:23 pm ¶Taj…I had no doubt you were a cast iron man! We’re expecting you to be less careless in the next six months and come back with the perfect technique for the “velvet”.
Posted 23 May 2009 at 11:34 pm ¶Was just wondering if you tried again and how they came out. I didn’t see your earlier question. I haven’t tried squeezing, then salting (then squeezing again I suppose?). A lot of the salt is carried out with the water you get from squeezing after salting though… I don’t know. Let me know how your next experiment goes (and I do want pics).
Posted 27 May 2009 at 11:58 am ¶Haven’t hit the spuds lately, will have to take another crack at it this week.
Posted 27 May 2009 at 1:24 pm ¶So when you finally solve this mysterious puzzle, please post the final ingriedents for us please
Posted 30 May 2009 at 7:36 am ¶It turns out Yukon Gold was the key. And bacon grease. But mostly it was the Yukon Golds. I varied the amounts of onions, and the types: all were good.
Posted 11 Jun 2009 at 11:28 pm ¶Post a Comment